Europe

How to Plan Your European Christmas Market Adventure

Rick & Kathie WetmoreLeave a comment
Vienna’s grand Rathausplatz transforms into a glowing Christmas wonderland each December.

Planning the Trip of a Lifetime

Planning a European Christmas Market trip is almost as much fun as the journey itself. With markets stretching from France to Austria — and from grand capitals like Vienna to small, cozy towns like Erfurt or Colmar — there’s something for everyone. Whether you prefer the simplicity of a river cruise, the convenience of a guided tour, or the independence of planning your own adventure, early planning is key.

Festive Main Square in Zagreb Croatia

When to Start Planning

If there’s one lesson we’ve learned over the years, it’s this: start early. I recommend beginning your planning no later than the summer of the year you want to go. For river cruises and popular organized tours, you may need to reserve a year or more in advance — many sell out quickly. If you’re planning your own independent trip, research early and build your itinerary around confirmed market dates. Most Christmas Markets begin with Advent (late November) and run until Christmas Eve, though a few extend into early January.

Google: “European Christmas Markets 2025”

Researching Destinations and Hotels

Start by thinking about the cities you most want to experience — perhaps the storybook streets of Colmar, the grandeur of Vienna, or the riverside charm of Cologne. Then use Google to find each city’s official Christmas Market website to confirm opening dates and event details.

Most markets are centered around a cathedral square or main plaza, so use Google Maps to explore the area. Switch to the Hotels view to find accommodations within walking distance of the markets.

When selecting a hotel, I always look for these features:
• Proximity to the market (walking distance saves time and adds convenience)
• Breakfast included — a nice way to start a winter morning
• Good reviews and holiday atmosphere

We’ve booked many of our hotels through Booking.com and have been very satisfied with the service and reliability.

Ventana Hotel, Prague. Free breakfast and 100m walk to Old Town Square Christmas Market

Choosing Your Travel Style

Over the years, we’ve experienced all three travel styles — and each offers something unique:

• River Cruises – Our 2021 Viking Rhine Getaway (#myvikingstory) made visiting markets effortless. You unpack once, explore a new city each day, and let the ship serve as your floating hotel. It’s perfect for first-timers, though you may miss some nighttime market scenes. Add extra days before or after your cruise to enjoy markets after dark.

• Guided Group Tours – We took a Collette Christmas Markets tour through Salzburg, Innsbruck, and Munich in 2016 and loved the experience. If you prefer small groups and a single-hotel base, choose a tour that visits nearby markets each day. Other reputable companies include Globus, Trafalgar, Insight Vacations, and Tauck.

• Independent Travel – Most of our market trips are self-planned. Europe’s trains, trams, and buses make it easy to connect markets. Independent travel gives you full flexibility to linger and explore.

Packing for the Season

Winter in Central Europe can be cold and damp, so dress accordingly:
• Warm, waterproof winter coat (with hood)
• Waterproof walking shoes or boots
• Gloves, hat, and layers
• Small daypack for essentials
• Reusable tote or bubble wrap sleeves for ornaments.

Budgeting and Money Tips

The main currency in most countries is the Euro, but in Prague the Czech Koruna is official. Many vendors accept Euros, though change is often in Koruna.

We use AAA’s currency service to order Euros before travel. Exchange over $200 and there’s no fee — plus you can request small denominations (5s, 10s, 20s). Small bills are essential since many market vendors can’t change large notes.

Many markets are cash-only, so plan ahead. ATMs are plentiful, but avoid airport exchange counters.

Essentials You Shouldn’t Forget

Europe uses 220V power with Type C or F plugs. Bring adapters for phones and laptops, and only use appliances labeled dual-voltage. Heating devices like hair dryers can be damaged even with an adapter if they aren’t dual-voltage. You will find most hotels have hair dryers and irons.

Do Your Research Ahead of Time

Before traveling, look up official Christmas Market websites to confirm dates, maps, and special events. • Major markets open daily for several weeks.
• Smaller towns may only operate on weekends.
• Some markets close early on Christmas Eve or stay open into New Year’s.

When researching, check event schedules for concerts or performances — many cities host choir concerts, plays, or community shows. If something catches your eye, book early; we’ve attended wonderful Christmas concerts and musical plays, and they’ve become favorite memories.

Traditional Croatian Folk Music at Zagreb Christmas Market

Getting Around Europe

Trains are the easiest way to travel between markets. They’re punctual, scenic, and relaxing.
• Look into Eurail or Deutsche Bahn passes.
• Within cities, trams and metros are efficient.
• Rideshare apps like Uber and Bolt operate in larger cities.
• If driving, check winter tire requirements and limited parking near markets.

Zagreb Christmas Tram

Stay Alert and Travel Smart

Christmas Markets are welcoming, but always stay aware. Pickpockets can target crowded areas, especially at night. Use a cross-body bag or money belt, and don’t keep all cash in one place. Stay mindful when taking photos or shopping in busy stalls.

Choosing the Right Lodging

Whenever possible, stay within walking distance of the market. It’s convenient to take breaks or drop off packages. We love boutique hotels or apartments — many decorate beautifully for the holidays. On river cruises, your hotel travels with you — a unique way to experience the markets.

The lobby of the elegant, but affordable Palace Hotel in Zagreb.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Always carry travel insurance with emergency medical and evacuation coverage. We use an annual Allianz plan that covers every trip we take. Even for occasional travelers, a single-trip policy offers peace of mind during busy holiday seasons.

Embrace the Spirit of the Season

Don’t overplan. The real magic of Christmas Markets happens when you slow down and simply enjoy the moment — a choir singing ‘Silent Night,’ the scent of roasted chestnuts, or the sparkle of lights reflected on cobblestones.

Kathie adding to our Gluhwein cup collection, Vienna Christmas Market 2018

Closing Thought

Go once, and you’ll want to go again. Whether your first Christmas Market is in Germany, Austria, or aboard a Viking cruise, the lights and memories will stay with you long after you return home.

A decade of Christmas Market memories — and we’re not done yet.

Our First Christmas Market Adventure: Germany & Beyond

Rick & Kathie WetmoreLeave a comment
Our First Christmas Market Journey – Frankfurt, Dresden, Strasbourg, Erfurt, Weimar & Idstein
November-December 2013

Part of the ‘Christmas Markets of Europe’ Series – A Travel Story by Rick Wetmore

The Invitation

It all began with an invitation from our daughter, who was living and working in Frankfurt, Germany. She wanted us to experience the magic of the German Christmas Markets firsthand. We had seen photos and heard the stories, but nothing quite prepared us for the atmosphere of twinkling lights, festive music, and the scent of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine drifting through centuries-old town squares.

Frankfurt Römerberg market at night
Frankfurt Römerberg market at night

Travel Overview

A concise summary of our itinerary and travel logistics:

ModeRouteDurationHighlights
✈️ FlightBoston → FrankfurtOvernightStaying with our daughter
🚗 Road TripFrankfurt → Erfurt → Dresden → Weimar → Frankfurt3 daysMarket visits & scenic countryside
🚄 TrainFrankfurt → Strasbourg (France)2 daysCrossing borders for a new tradition

Frankfurt Christmas Market – The Beginning

Our first taste of the Christmas Market tradition began right in Frankfurt, where our daughter lived. Centered around the Römerberg square and St. Paul’s Church, the Frankfurt market is one of Germany’s oldest, dating back to 1393.

Highlights: the giant Christmas tree, the historic carousel, glühwein (mulled wine), and festive stalls.

🎥 Watch our slideshow: Frankfurt Christmas Market

Erfurt – Cathedral Square Charm

On our drive from Frankfurt to Dresden, we stopped in Erfurt for lunch and to stretch our legs — and ended up discovering one of the most beautiful Christmas Market settings in all of Germany. Erfurt’s market fills the vast Domplatz (Cathedral Square), framed by the twin spires of St. Mary’s Cathedral and St. Severus Church that rise dramatically above the city. It’s a scene that feels lifted straight from the pages of a Christmas storybook.

The market itself had a wonderful, welcoming atmosphere. Rows of wooden stalls sold everything from hand-carved nativity figures to delicate glass ornaments. The air was filled with the scent of grilled sausages, roasted almonds, and the ever-present aroma of glühwein. A children’s carousel spun slowly in front of the cathedral steps, its music blending with church bells in the distance — a reminder that this was not just a festival, but a celebration of deep-rooted holiday tradition.

What made Erfurt special was its balance of grandeur and intimacy. It was large enough to impress, yet small enough to feel personal. Locals mingled easily with visitors, sharing smiles and warm drinks as the afternoon light faded into evening. Standing there, watching the lights flicker to life beneath the cathedral towers, we realized that each German market had its own personality — and Erfurt’s was peaceful, heartfelt, and steeped in timeless charm.

Dresden – History, Lights, and Tradition

Our next stop was Dresden, home to one of the oldest and most famous Christmas Markets in Germany — the Striezelmarkt, first held in 1434. After a long, cold drive from Frankfurt (and a memorable encounter with sleet and freezing rain along the way), we arrived to find a city glowing with Christmas spirit. Dresden’s market was everything we’d imagined and more — colorful, musical, historic, and alive with the scent of baked stollen and spiced wine.

The Striezelmarkt takes its name from “Striezel,” the original German name for the city’s beloved fruit bread, now known as Dresdner Stollen. In fact, the stollen is so central to the city’s holiday identity that it has its own festival and parade each December. Stalls throughout the square offered slices of the buttery, powdered-sugar-covered treat — along with handmade ornaments, nutcrackers, and the beautiful wooden pyramids for which the Erzgebirge (Ore Mountains) region is famous.

What stood out most was the sheer scale and craftsmanship. A massive Christmas pyramid, more than 45 feet tall, rotated at the center of the square — its tiers filled with carved angels, shepherds, and wise men. Nearby, a children’s market bustled with laughter and the smell of roasted nuts, while choirs sang from a stage near the Church of Our Lady. Every direction we turned was filled with light and life.

That evening, standing in the glow of the market with a mug of glühwein in hand, we both felt as if we had stepped into a classic Christmas card come to life. The combination of Dresden’s historic architecture, festive energy, and old-world charm left a lasting impression — one that would draw us back to Europe’s Christmas Markets again and again.

Weimar – A Peaceful Pause on the Road Home

After several full days exploring the festive splendor of Dresden, we began our return trip toward Frankfurt — but decided to make a stop in Weimar, a city long known for its cultural and artistic heritage. It turned out to be the perfect mid-journey pause, a quieter contrast to the larger markets we’d just experienced.

Weimar’s Christmas Market filled the historic Marktplatz, surrounded by beautifully preserved 18th- and 19th-century buildings that once inspired the likes of Goethe and Schiller. The square glowed softly under strands of golden lights, with a modest wooden Christmas Pyramid turning gently at its center. The air carried the familiar scents of roasted nuts, spiced glühwein, and sizzling Thüringer bratwurst, the regional specialty that’s impossible to resist.

Compared to Dresden’s grandeur or Erfurt’s cathedral backdrop, Weimar felt personal and unhurried. Locals chatted at the stalls, families lingered near small fire pits, and a children’s choir sang near the base of the old town hall. It was the kind of place where you could simply stand still, take in the lights, and feel time slow down.

As evening fell, we sipped our last glühwein of the trip, knowing we’d soon be back in Frankfurt — but also realizing how each stop along the way had its own rhythm and personality. Weimar was our gentle farewell to Germany’s Christmas season that year, and a perfect reminder that sometimes, the smallest markets create the warmest memories.

🎥 Watch our slideshow: Erfurt-Dresden-Weimar

Strasbourg – The Heart of Christmas

Our final stop on that first Christmas Market adventure was Strasbourg, France — a city that proudly calls itself “The Capital of Christmas.” After traveling through Germany’s markets, crossing into Alsace felt both familiar and new. The half-timbered buildings and twinkling lights carried echoes of Germany, yet the cafés, language, and flavors hinted unmistakably at France. It was the perfect blend of two cultures — and an unforgettable way to end our journey.

We arrived in Strasbourg by train and checked into the Maison Rouge Strasbourg Hotel, ideally located within walking distance of the markets. From the moment we stepped into the old town, we knew this was something special. The entire Grande Île — Strasbourg’s historic city center and a UNESCO World Heritage Site — had been transformed into a glowing wonderland. Streets shimmered with garlands of light, store windows sparkled with decorations, and every corner seemed to lead to another market square filled with music and laughter.

The main market in Place Kléber was breathtaking, anchored by Strasbourg’s towering Christmas tree and surrounded by dozens of wooden chalets selling ornaments, pastries, and local crafts. Each evening, a spectacular light and sound show illuminated the square, washing the surrounding buildings in color while festive music filled the air. It was impossible not to be swept up in the moment — the warmth, the joy, and the feeling that Christmas was truly everywhere.

Beyond the main square, smaller markets spread across the old town: the Christkindelsmärik near the cathedral, the market at Place Broglie, and countless little pockets of festivity tucked between narrow lanes. We wandered for hours, sampling Alsatian specialties — spaetzle, bredele cookies, and mugs of warm vin chaud, France’s version of glühwein. The air was crisp, the lights golden, and the sound of church bells echoing through the narrow streets made it all feel timeless.

Strasbourg was more than just beautiful — it was magical. Standing beneath the great cathedral, its spire reaching high into the winter sky, we both felt that this was the perfect finale to our first Christmas Market trip. It’s no wonder Strasbourg has held the title “Capital of Christmas” for centuries. When we finally boarded the train back to Frankfurt, we carried with us not just souvenirs and photos, but the realization that we’d discovered something special — a new holiday tradition that would keep drawing us back to Europe, year after year.

🎥 Watch our slideshow: Strasbourg Christmas Market

Idstein – A Local Gem

Our day trip to Idstein was a highlight for its local charm and personal touch. The town, known for its colorful, crooked half-timbered houses, is part of Germany’s Half-Timbered Trail. Our daughter arranged a walking tour through Frankfurt on Foot, a highly rated English-speaking tour company run by an American husband-and-wife team. We joined a group of American civilians and military families, meeting at Frankfurt’s main train station before taking the 45-minute regional train to Idstein.Once there, our guide led us through the picturesque streets and even arranged for us to visit the interior of the historic Union Church, famous for its beautiful 17th-century painted ceilings. After the formal tour, we had time to wander freely, enjoying lunch, chatting with locals, and sipping more of that irresistible Glühwein at the small but lively market. As dusk settled over the town, we caught the evening train back to Frankfurt — tired, content, and already planning our next Christmas Market visit.

🎥 Watch our slideshow: Idstein Christmas Market

Reflections

Experiencing these Christmas Markets together — with our daughter as our guide — made this journey deeply personal. Each city had its own traditions and flavors, but all shared the same spirit of joy, community, and timeless beauty. It was the perfect introduction to what has become one of our favorite ways to celebrate the holiday season. Looking back, what made this trip unforgettable wasn’t just the markets themselves — it was sharing them as a family, discovering local traditions through our daughter’s eyes, and realizing that every city, large or small, celebrates the same sense of warmth and wonder in its own way.

Looking Ahead

This trip was the start of a tradition that inspired us to explore more markets across Europe in the years that followed. Stay tuned for upcoming posts in the ‘Christmas Markets of Europe’ series — including Vienna, Cologne, Brussels, Innsbruck, Prague and others.

Gluhwein Cup

Welcome to the World of European Christmas Markets

Rick & Kathie WetmoreLeave a comment
Frankfurt’s Römerberg glows under the lights of its towering Christmas tree and historic guild houses.

Frankfurt’s Römerberg glows under the lights of its towering Christmas tree and historic guild houses.

A Season of Lights, Music, and Tradition

There’s something magical about Europe at Christmastime. From late November through December, centuries-old squares transform into glowing holiday villages. Wooden stalls trimmed with evergreens line cobblestone streets, the air fills with the scent of roasted nuts and spiced wine, and music drifts through the crisp night air.

For travelers, it’s a sensory experience like no other — part festival, part cultural tradition, and all wrapped in the charm of old-world Europe.

Our first introduction to this festive world came in 2013, when our daughter, then working in Frankfurt, invited us to visit during the holiday season. What began as a family visit soon became the start of a long love affair with Europe’s Christmas Markets.

Our First Christmas Market Journey – Germany and France, 2013

We based ourselves in Frankfurt, exploring the city’s famous Römerberg Christmas Market, one of Germany’s oldest. The historic square, framed by half-timbered buildings and a towering Christmas tree, set the perfect stage for our introduction to the season.

From there, we ventured further afield — to Dresden, Erfurt, and Idstein, each with its own charm.
• Dresden’s Striezelmarkt, dating back to 1434, dazzled with its giant wooden pyramid and the aroma of freshly baked stollen.
• Erfurt’s market spread beneath the twin spires of its grand cathedral, glowing with color and tradition.
• And Idstein, a quiet gem along Germany’s half-timbered road, offered a cozy, small-town market that felt like stepping into a storybook.

Dresden Striezelmarkt – “Germany’s oldest Christmas Market glowing under winter skies.”
Dresden Striezelmarkt – “Germany’s oldest Christmas Market glowing under winter skies.”
Erfurt Market – “Colorful stalls beneath Erfurt Cathedral’s illuminated towers.”
Erfurt Market – “Colorful stalls beneath Erfurt Cathedral’s illuminated towers.”
Frankfurt – “A festive gathering place in the heart of old Frankfurt.”
Frankfurt – “A festive gathering place in the heart of old Frankfurt.”
Idstein - "A cozy, small-town market that felt like stepping into a storybook."
Idstein – “A cozy, small-town market that felt like stepping into a storybook.”

Strasbourg – The Heart of Christmas

Of all the places we visited on that first trip, Strasbourg, France, stole our hearts. Known as ‘The Capital of Christmas,’ Strasbourg’s market dates back to 1570 and fills the old city with light, music, and warmth.

Each evening, the Place Kléber came alive with a spectacular light and sound show, while the scent of spiced wine and Alsatian pastries drifted through the streets. Strasbourg’s blend of French and German influences made it unforgettable — elegant, welcoming, and filled with joy.

We stayed at the Maison Rouge Strasbourg Hotel, perfectly located within walking distance of all the markets — ideal for late-night strolls among the lights.

Strasbourg Christmas Market – “The Alsatian capital shines with timeless Christmas spirit.”
Strasbourg Christmas Market – “The Alsatian capital shines with timeless Christmas spirit.”
Strasbourg Christmas Market – “The Alsatian capital shines with timeless Christmas spirit.”

Strasbourg Christmas Market – “The Alsatian capital shines with timeless Christmas spirit.”

Tastes of the Season

No matter where you go, one thing remains constant — glühwein, the warm, spiced wine served in collectible mugs unique to each market. Over the years, we’ve built quite the collection of mugs, each one a memory of a place and moment shared.

And then there’s the food — from German sausages and brats to Alsatian spaetzle, and of course, a wide array of sweets that no traveler can resist. Each market offers its own flavors, and half the fun is tasting them all.

German Sausages
Themed Gluhwein Mugs
Plent of Sweets

Getting There and Getting Around

Our 11-day adventure began with a nonstop Lufthansa flight from Boston to Frankfurt. From there, we explored by train, tram, and car — efficient, comfortable, and easy even in winter weather. We drove five hours to Dresden (through sleet and freezing rain — quite the Thanksgiving adventure!), stopped for lunch in Erfurt, and later took the fast train to Strasbourg.

It was on that trip that we discovered how seamlessly European rail travel connects major Christmas Market cities — perfect for those who want to see several destinations in one journey.

The Start of a Traveling Tradition

That first journey in 2013 sparked something that has become one of our favorite holiday traditions. Since then, we’ve returned to Europe again and again — exploring markets in Austria, Switzerland, France, Croatia, the Czech Republic, and Belgium, as well as along the Rhine River aboard Viking Cruises.

Each trip adds new memories — and new glühwein mugs — to our growing collection.

This winter, we’ll continue the story with a pre-cruise stay in Madrid before sailing on a Viking Ocean Cruise from Barcelona to San Juan, Puerto Rico. We’re already researching Madrid’s Christmas Markets and can’t wait to see how Spain celebrates the season.

Coming Up in This Series

Over the next several weeks, we’ll share highlights from our favorite Christmas Market destinations — complete with photos, travel tips, and firsthand experiences to help you plan your own holiday adventure.

Here’s what’s ahead:
• How to Plan Your European Christmas Market Adventure
• Frankfurt, Dresden & Erfurt – Our First Taste of Christmas in Germany
• Colmar & the Alsace Region – A Storybook Christmas
• Salzburg, Innsbruck & Munich – A Festive Austrian Tour
• Vienna, Bratislava & Zagreb – Christmas Across Central Europe
• Brussels – Winter Wonders at the Grand-Place
• Viking Rhine Getaway – A Christmas Market River Cruise
• Prague – One City, Endless Christmas Charm
• Madrid Christmas Markets – A New Holiday Chapter
• Why We Keep Coming Back to Europe at Christmastime

Closing Thought

Whether it’s sipping glühwein beneath a cathedral spire, browsing handcrafted ornaments, or simply walking hand-in-hand through a glowing market square, there’s no better way to experience the spirit of the season than in Europe’s Christmas Markets.

We hope you’ll join us as we revisit the markets, the memories, and the magic that keep bringing us back year after year.

Friendly Santa - "Frankfurt Christmas Market"
Friendly Santa – “Frankfurt Christmas Market”

Looking Back at Favorite Trips

Rick & Kathie Wetmore5 Comments

Würzburg Residence Court Garden: Embracing Autumn’s Warmth

Looking back at our October 1st, 2020, stop in Würzburg Germany on our first Viking River Cruise.

Autumn has a way of turning every landscape into a work of art, and the Würzburg Court Garden in Germany are no exception. While we had the pleasure of visiting this enchanting destination during the fall season, the experience was nothing short of magical.

A Palette of Earth Tones

As we strolled through the gardens, the crunch of leaves beneath my feet created a soothing symphony. The palace, an architectural masterpiece, stood gracefully amidst a sea of warm earth tones. The vibrant reds and oranges of early autumn may have faded, but what remained was equally captivating—a gentle transition to deep golds and rustic browns.

One element that caught our eye was the beds of bright yellow flowers, scattered throughout the gardens. Their cheerful hue was a welcome contrast to the muted tones of the season, adding a touch of vibrancy to the scene.

Exploring the Palace’s Rich History

The Würzburg Residence is an 18th Century baroque style palace, since 1981, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its outstanding Baroque art, design, and architecture.

A visit to Würzburg Residence is incomplete without delving into its rich history. The guided tour of the palace’s opulent interiors was a fascinating journey back in time. From intricately designed rooms to awe-inspiring architecture, every corner of the palace offered a glimpse into the grandeur of a bygone era.

In Conclusion

Würzburg Court Garden in the fall offers a harmonious blend of history and nature. While our pictures may not have captured every aspect of this enchanting destination, the memories created during this journey will remain etched in our heart. The warm earth tones, the yellow flowers, and the cozy ambiance of autumn made this visit truly special.

So, if you’re looking for a place to embrace the warmth of autumn, don’t miss the Würzburg Court Garden. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply seeking a tranquil escape, this destination promises an unforgettable experience amidst the changing colors of fall.

Plan your visit and let the beauty of autumn unfold before your eyes at this hidden gem in the heart of Germany.

Information websites

Wurzburg Court Garden
Wurzburg Court Garden
Wurzburg Court Garden
Wurzburg Court Garden
Wurzburg Court Garden
Kathie among the flowers

Northern Lights, Fjords, and History – Narvik, Norway

Rick & Kathie Wetmore1 Comment

March 11, 2023, just two days into our journey on the Viking Venus, we were treated to a breathtaking display of the Northern Lights as we sailed through the fjords towards Narvik. The shimmering green and purple hues of the aurora borealis left us speechless and in awe.

The next morning, we stepped off the ship into a winter wonderland, with snow-covered mountains and fjords stretching out before us. A panoramic bus tour of Narvik gave us a glimpse into the town’s history and culture, including a visit to the Narvik War Museum, where we learned about the town’s role in World War II and the Battle of Narvik. It was a sobering but fascinating experience, and we left with a newfound appreciation for the sacrifices made by those who fought for their country.

As we set sail once again, we couldn’t help but feel grateful for the chance to experience such natural beauty and learn more about Norway’s rich history and culture. Next stop Tromso Norway.

Our first sighting of the Northern Lights from the decks of the Viking Venus

Sailing into Narvik

German Enigma Machine – Narvik War Museum

Flying High on the London Eye

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March 7, 2023, we had only one full day in London before we boarded the Viking Venus to start our Northern Lights cruise to Arctic Norway. Having visited London in the past, we had seen most of the typical tourist sites, but have never ridden on the London Eye. We had booked tickets several weeks before on Trip Advisor so we could bypass any long lines.

Late afternoon we walked from our hotel, Conrad St. James in Westminster to the Eye, about 20 minutes walk. It was cloudy and cold and had been raining and snow showers earlier. We got the The Eye at about 5:15pm and the sky was brightening, we had no wait, right on board our pod and away we went, about 30 minutes to go around and what views!

2022 Prague Christmas Market Trip – Arrival Day

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We arrived in Prague on November 26th after a long overnight flight from Boston (via Munich). This would be our eighth Christmas Market trip since 2013. We visited Prague back in the Spring of 2019 at the end of a Viking Elbe River cruise and loved this beautiful, old European city. At that time, we thought it might be a good Christmas Market destination. Early this past Fall we decided to do another Christmas Market trip, and after some Internet research, we saw that Prague had high Christmas Market ratings, so the choice was made!

We arrived at out hotel mid-afternoon on Nov 26th, the opening day for the Old Town Square Christmas Market. Our hotel, the Ventana, was perfectly located near the Old Town Square and from our room we could see the square and the famous clock tower. Resting for a bit, we ventured out to the square to watch the lighting of the Christmas Tree at 4:30pm.

Wow, the crowd was huge, it was difficult trying to move around or get a decent spot to view the tree lighting. We attempted to walk around the Christmas Market but it was near impossible to get close to any vendor stalls for food, drink or crafts. We decided to find a proper restaurant for dinner and after checking out many crowded restaurants, we settled for one away from the square but not far from our hotel. All the restaurants were crowded, especially ones with large screen TV’s, you see, the World Cup was going on and we were in a soccer loving country!

The next days and nights the Christmas Markets would be crowded, but much easier to get around. At night the lights created such a magical experience. Christmas Markets at night are the best!

Stay tuned for more blogs on our Prague trip:

  • Visit to Prague Castle
  • Checking out other Christmas Markets around the city
  • Christmas Market foods
  • Tour some of the beautiful Prague Churches

Here are some images from the Old Town Square Christmas Market.

Front door of the Ventana Hotel Ventana Hotel View form our room
Opening day crowds and lighting of the Christmas Tree

Night time at Old Town Square Christmas Market

Our video tour of Old Town Christmas Market

Ready To Cruise Again

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In less than a week we will be cruising again!

Prior to the Pandemic we had booked two cruises with Viking for 2020, one river cruise of the eastern Danube and one ocean cruise of the Mediterranean. Both cruises were cancelled as everything shutdown and we took cruise credits in hopes to reschedule. Well finally, cruising is restarting and we have rebooked our Mediterranean cruise for mid-October.

While COVID protocols for the cruise restart are a bit intimidating, we are ready and are so looking forward to getting back to traveling and cruising. We will start our cruise in Barcelona where we will embark on the brand new “Viking Venus”, launched earlier this year. This 13 day cruise will take us to ports on the French Riviera, Italy, Greece, and Croatia, ending in Venice. We opted for a 3-day post cruise extension to Lake Como, Italy.

Looking Back

Looking back at our past Viking Ocean Cruise experiences provides us with so many wonderful memories. It’s these past experiences that are fueling our excitement and eagerness to get back to cruising again.

This short video montage shows what we have missed about Viking Ocean Cruises and illustrates why we are so ready to get back onboard cruising again.

Check back to follow our Viking Venus Mediterranean Cruise

November 11, 1918 – My Grandfather’s Recollection from the Western Front

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The Pandemic has taken a toll on our travel blog. Nothing to report since our last article in early March about our final days in Buenos Aires.

I thought it would be appropriate on this Veteran’s Day/Remembrance Day to share some of my grandfather’s writings about his experiences in World War One. I am fortunate to have inherited a treasure trove of his typewritten, hand illustrated stories.

ARMISTICE NOVEMBER 11, 1918

The following stories were written by my Grandfather, David Lee Wetmore who served in the Royal Canadian Dragoons cavalry regiment during World War One. He enlisted in Canada at war’s outbreak in August 1914 and served in France and Belgium fighting in battles that included Somme, Ypres, and Cambria. He returned to Canada in 1919 with his war bride (my Grandmother) he met in England.

The stories that follow were from typewritten pages, illustrated with his hand drawn sketches. He wrote these (and many more) during the 1940’s and 1950’s from his recollections. While these stories were not dated, they are obviously written about the events surrounding the Armistice while he was in an unnamed Belgian village. The French phrases in each story are my grandfather’s attempt at written French.

I was fortunate to find the daily war diaries of the Royal Canadian Dragoons on the Library and Archives of Canada website and can now provide the historical context of my grandfather’s stories. From these diaries, here is the timeline of the days leading up to 11 November 1918.

Nov 7…. Left Baralle (France) at 07:30 arrived at Cuincy (France) at 13:00 very dull day – men billeted in ruins of village – horse in open 

Nov 8-9…. Left Cuincy at 06:00 arrived Martinsart (Belgium) 10:00 – men in buildings and horses in open 

Nov 10…. Left Martinsart at 09:30 arrived at Peronnes (Belgium) at 20:00 – Belgians very pleased to see us 

Nov 11… Left Peronnes at 08:00 – “A” Squadron left Flank Guard to the Division – Regiment leading with ??? – Brigade halted at Tourpes (Belgium) at 10:40 – Cease Fire sounded at 11:00 – Everyone overjoyed but rather sorry not to be actually in touch with the Bosche at the time – returned Westward and spent the night at Haut-Trieux.

David Lee Wetmore 1884-1975
Served with the Royal Canadian Dragoons 1914-1919

In My Grandfather’s Words

OU FAIRE VOUS MESS’URE? We were following up the German retreat. The vaunted power of the Kaiser’s army was badly diminished, and a corporal and four men had been known to bring in a whole regiment of German prisoners. 

An old soldier by this time, I knew enough to carry an extra blanket rolled in my greatcoat, as the army’s slogan “one man, one blanket” was proving badly inadequate on these chilly nights. My right hand mate had crawled under the blankets with me and we had spent the night fairly comfortably, then getting up and underway again with the dawn in the morning.

But as we began to pass through the villages, more and more we were asked the question “Ou Faire vous Mes’sure. Le guerre finis”. About noon we were off saddled in a field while the officers attended a ‘pow-wow’. Idly we lay around, caught up on our sleep or played cards, expecting any moment to get the order to saddle up and move. After having been asked the question several times that morning, the liaison officer passes us and I asked him whether he had heard anything of what the villagers were talking about. He replied that there was a rumor to that effect, but that it was, as yet, unconfirmed.

TRUMPETER We were sitting around waiting for orders when the Colonel came rushing out of a gang of officers who had been ‘pow-wowing’ all the time we were in there, at a telephone station, roaring for a trumpeter. Thinking that we were about to move out we all started scrambling around for our gear, when the trumpeter instead of the ‘Boots and saddles’ that we had expected, sounded ‘Cease fire’.

We were all so fed up and disgusted that for a moment, nothing happened. Le guerre, indeed, was finis. But just for the moment, it didn’t register, there was no outbreak of cheering, no demonstration of any sort. We were just so eternally disgusted with everything that nothing mattered any more.

YOU HAVE DONE ENOUGH FOR BELGIUM  When we stabled the horses that night the civilians came rushing into the stables. They would not allow us to do anything. “You have done enough for Belgium” they said “Belgium now does for you”. They seized the brushes, pails or whatever we might have in our hands as we were doing the necessary work of seeing our mounts taken care of, out of our hands. “Merci Dieu vive le Canadien” they said, and we were forced, much to the sergeant’s disgust to stand with our hands in our pockets while the civvies took care of our horses.

DANCING IN THE STREETS There was dancing in the streets of the Belgian village that night. We had scarcely eaten our supper when the local beauties, arrayed in their best, dragged us out “Allez: Allez le dance” they said. And we danced in the streets, where huge blazing fires had been lighted, until early dawn. Even the good priest had attended, though I don’t remember that he danced.

We could scarcely find it in our hearts to blame them. They had had their faces ground into the dirt by the arrogant German Soldiers for too many years now to let anything interfere with their pleasure. And they were a pleasure-loving people.

All night long, as we danced to the music of a local fiddler, doing his best, the village rang with cries of the villagers “Vive le Canadien” “Merci Dieu”. With a girl on each arm, dressed in the finest she had, we kept the celebration going until early morning, nor were the girls loath to stay as long as we would. 

EVERY DAY IS WASHDAY The Belgian villagers just couldn’t do enough for us. Having a small washing I wanted done one morning, I approached the good lady of the house asking if I could get it done. “Oui, Mess’ure: she responded cheerfully. “When can I get it?” I asked “Tonight, mess’ure” she answered “But” I said “This is not washday” “Every day is washday, mess’ure” she said “If you have washing to be done”.

A Badly Frightened Man Shortly after the Armistice, we were following up the German retreat when we received word one afternoon that a German straggler was hiding in a barn a few miles away.

I was sent with a small detachment to bring him in and turn him over to the authorities.

When we reached the village, we found an excited mob of villagers milling around the door of a barn.

We went in and after a short search, found the man cowering behind stacked bales of hay at the back of the barn.

We took him out, formed a hollow square with the horses and placed him in the middle of it. He was the most badly frightened man that I have ever seen and well he might be. If those villagers, armed as they were, with pitchforks, axes, clubs, any weapon with which they could do damage (one woman had even brought along an iron ladle) had they ever got their hands on him, they would cheerfully have torn him limb from limb.

Brussels Christmas Market

Rick & Kathie Wetmore3 Comments

Christmas time for me evokes many warm childhood memories. Decorating our family tree, shopping with mom in the big department stores all decked out with lights and displays, and of course, Santa Claus. I remember how excited we would get as Christmas day approach; the anticipation was palpable.

Many if not most of our Christmas traditions are deeply rooted in European culture. From the Christmas stories we read, Christmas TV shows and movies, Christmas music and Hallmark cards, all seem to depict those Dickensian or Currier & Ives themed scenes of a simpler time. What’s more traditional than the Christmas Market? These Christmas Markets date back to the Middle Ages celebrating the Advent season leading up to Christmas day.

What is it about European Christmas Markets that keeps drawing us back? When you walk the cobblestone streets of a European Christmas Market, usually located at the main Cathedral square or at centuries old town hall plazas, the past seems to come alive. Vendor chalets selling hand crafted ornaments, decorations or toys, plenty of local street food and the famous hot mulled wine (German Gluhwein or French Vin Chaud). For me this is magical, reinforcing the Christmas Spirit.

This years Christmas Market visit was to Brussels. Flying on the day after Thanksgiving, arriving for the opening weekend of Brussels’ Plaisirs D’hiver or Winter Wonders celebrations. The festivities are spread throughout the city and my hotel was in front of the main Christmas Market at Place Sainte-Catherineis.

The crowds were huge for the opening weekend with all ages; families with kids, young and older adults, lots of locals and tourists. Obviously a very popular place at Christmas time.

Crowds at the main Christmas Market
The Sights & Sounds of Brussels’ Christmas Markets

The main Christmas Market at Place Sainte-Catherineis with over 200 vendor chalets was located right across the street from my hotel, the Brussels Welcome Hotel. The hotel was quaint and quirky, with each room decorated in a different country decor. My room, the Cuba Room had a model of a ’57 Chevy convertible on the door (instead of a number), and the interior had cigar themed pictures and decorations plus a large wall mural of an old Havana building facade. The owners, Michel & Sophie and their staff were very friendly and helpful. They had their own chalet at the Christmas Market that featured oysters and champagne, that’s classy!

Speaking of the food, this Christmas Market had most of the typical fare; German bratwurst, pretzels, other comfort food, and of course, the Gluhwein. But there were some upscale selections as well, such as escargot, Russian caviar and vodka, along with the local favorites, fresh Mussels, Belgian chocolate and Belgian waffles. Fortunately there is a lot of walking at these Christmas Markets, so you can burn off those excess calories.

  • My Hotel

Food

  • Foot-long sausages
  • Tartiflette
    (potatoes, cheese, bacon, white wine, onions)
  • Chocolate covered cherries
  • Oysters

There were several other Christmas Markets within walking distance. Grand Place, the main city square, with its towering 17th Century city hall surrounded by the gold trimmed Guild Halls, featured a large Christmas Tree in the center of the square. Grand Place was the site of an amazing light and sound show, presented every evening (several showings each night), with colorful lights projected against the facades of the old buildings.

Grand Place
Grand Place Light & Sound Show video

After a week in Brussels it was time to go home. This was the last trip for our 2019 travel season. Another Christmas Market completed and awaiting the New Year for new and exciting travel adventures.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Everyone!